Brocade weaving
A woven cloth with raised patterns formed by extra threads.
ब्रोकेड बुनाई
What it is
Brocade is a woven fabric, not an embroidery. Extra threads, often metallic, are woven into the cloth in places to form raised patterns. The design is part of the cloth itself.
Brocade has a rich, structured hand and is used for sherwanis, jackets, blouses and lehenga panels.
How it is made
- 1DesignA pattern is planned and translated into a weaving chart.
- 2WarpThe lengthwise threads are set up on the loom.
- 3Weave the groundThe base cloth is woven with the main weft.
- 4Add the patternExtra weft threads, in zari or silk, are woven in only where the motif appears.
- 5FinishThe cloth is cut from the loom, inspected, and floating threads are trimmed from the reverse.
The tradition
Brocade weaving has a long history in India, with several regional centres known for it. Ozravé describes its pieces by technique and look, not by regional trade names, unless the origin is confirmed.
How to recognise quality
- Motifs are crisp, with clear edges.
- Floating threads on the reverse are neatly trimmed.
- The cloth hangs with body and does not feel thin or loose.
- Pattern repeats align across the width.
Care
- Dry clean only.
- Store flat or rolled, not folded sharply along the same crease.
- Air after wearing before storing.