Phulkari
Flower work in silk floss, stitched from the reverse side.
फुलकारी
What it is
Phulkari means flower work. It is a Punjabi embroidery of bold geometric flowers, stitched in untwisted silk floss so the thread shines.
The artisan works on the back of the cloth, counting threads, so the pattern grows on the front without being drawn. The long floating stitches catch light.
How it is made
- 1CountThe artisan counts threads of the base cloth to place each stitch without a drawn design.
- 2DarnLong, straight darning stitches are worked on the reverse.
- 3Direct the lightStitches run in different directions to make shapes reflect light differently.
- 4FillRepeated rows fill motifs: flowers, diamonds, fields.
- 5FinishEdges are bound and the cloth is pressed.
The tradition
Phulkari is a traditional embroidery of Punjab. It has long been made for family celebrations and weddings, passed from mother to daughter.
How to recognise quality
- Stitches are parallel and even.
- Floss is untwisted and smooth.
- Motifs are symmetrical.
- Colours are bright but balanced.
Care
- Dry clean or gentle hand wash after a colour test.
- Avoid snagging long stitches.
- Dry flat in shade.