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Dabka and nakshi

Coiled and spring-like metallic wire, sewn as raised line work.

दबका और नक़्शी

What it is

Dabka and nakshi belong to the zardozi family. Dabka is a thin coiled metal wire. Nakshi is a short, tightly wound spring-like piece. Both are cut to length and stitched down, giving fine, textured lines and tiny raised beads of metal.

They are used for outlines, borders and detailed motifs, often alongside larger zardozi fills.

How it is made

  1. 1CutThe coiled wire is snipped into short lengths.
  2. 2ThreadEach length is passed onto the needle like a bead.
  3. 3StitchIt is sewn down along the outline, with a small stitch at each end.
  4. 4BuildMany short pieces form a continuous textured line.
  5. 5CombineLarger zardozi elements and sequins are added around it.

The tradition

These techniques developed within the zardozi tradition and are used wherever fine metal outline work is wanted, in bridal and ceremonial wear.

How to recognise quality

  • Segments meet with no visible gaps.
  • Each piece is straight and secure.
  • Lines follow the drawn curve without kinks.
  • Metal has an even tone with no dark patches.

Care

  • Dry clean only by a specialist.
  • Keep dry. Store wrapped in muslin.
  • Avoid contact with perfume and sweat.